![]() I could fill the rest of the page with everything I did including the ignition switch. I spent months trying to find the cause of stalling and finally gave up. so you could have two different issues.ĭo general maintenance then wait for it to get worse is my advice. I suppose coming off of highway speed to slower speed could be a dirty throttle body or IAC but don’t think that would cause your other symptoms. Computer connections, and so on as a start. Fuse connections, especially for the computer. Shutting off momentarily and back on again when you flip the switch, certainly does indicate some kind of an electrical issue. You didn’t mention the crank sensor but really, the best you can do is wait for it to get worse. I thought you said the pump was running? Therefore not the fuel pump. ![]() ![]() Could that be distributor cap and rotor? I didn’t replace those yet (just plugs and wires).Ĭould it be the fuel pump relay gets hot and somehow stops making a connection?Īny help would be greatly appreciated! I don’t have the money right now to chase this problem endlessly with an auto shop… Should I just start replacing easy parts like the ICM and TPS myself? Could it still be my fuel pump? What could be getting hot and working differently than when cold? Could it just be my battery is bad? It is a bit old. I told them I will come in and drive it with someone and hopefully get it to stall so they can see.Īnyways, does anyone have an idea what could be causing such an incredibly intermittent stalling issue like this? It doesn’t seem to be fuel, because it doesn’t sputter before or after it stalls. This is just an annoying coincidence- the other night it ran good for me and didnt stall, but It has stalled on me almost every day multiple times in the last week. The truck is in a shop now, and they called me today and said they drove it for a long time, probably 30 miles or so on the highway, and they could not get it to stall. I have read stalling problems with these engines could be EGR related, TPS, IAC, ICM, etc. I have changed spark plugs and wires, cleaned throttle body and MAF, and cleaned the IAC valve. I will stress that it really doesn’t stall DURING acceleration, but instead AFTER I have accelerated and then slowed back down. It rarely will die at idle, it seems to mostly happen when driving at around 20 mph. It seems to idle very low, and my oil pressure also gets down to around 10 psi at idle when the engine is really warm. I can hear the pump loud and clear though so I know it is working at least most of the time. I’ve read that could indicate a failing fuel pump. A few times though it was a bit hard to start it back up. It doesn’t sputter then stall, it just dies and then starts right back up. I would have dash lights, but I would have to quickly shift to N and turn the key off and on and it will fire right back up. Then it got to the point where I would have been driving my 10 minute commute on the highway, and then when I took an exit and started driving at 20 mph or so, the truck would completely die, or stall, not sure which one to call it. It would happen quickly and would not be any sort of aggressive sputtering. A few weeks ago, I noticed that very occasionally, after the vehicle was warm, I would see a sudden full RPM dip to 0 while driving down the highway, but then the vehicle would return to normal operation. Hi all- I have a 98 Chevy C2500 pickup (5.7L Vortec 350) that I am having a real frustrating time with.
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